Romania: The Road Trip That Gave Me Everything (and More Than I Expected)
I didn’t expect Romania to feel like this.
I expected castles, a bit of Dracula folklore, and long drives through Transylvania. What I didn’t expect was how much it would give back — in texture, in warmth, in those small, unscripted moments that stay with you long after you’ve unpacked.
We landed in Bucharest in the morning but due to faff with hire cars, shuttles, a 2 hour time diff and an hour into the city, we made it to our Airbnb just in time to dash to Cărturești Carusel — the bookshop I’d been quietly set on seeing. 30 minutes was all we had, but it was enough. Light pouring through, white balconies, spiral staircases, and 5 floors of literary heaven, busy with a sense of calm you only get in a really well-designed space.
Dinner was at Caru' cu Bere — lively, theatrical, a little chaotic in the best way. The perfect introduction.
Castles (and closed doors)
The next morning we set off early for Peleș Castle… which was closed.
And yet — it didn’t matter.
The setting alone was enough. Ornate, dramatic, almost impossibly detailed. A reminder that sometimes you don’t need to go inside to feel a place.
From there, on to Bran Castle, where Dracula was assumed to reside in Bram Stokers books 'a castle high on a hill overlooking the town' A must see, and a mooch around the markets for some souvenirs - in my case, a blouse.
Then on to our Airbnb cottage on the hill in Bran — Stunning authentic interiors, complete with a hot tub and that quiet, mountain air that makes everything slow down.
Dinner that night at Restaurant Spice (part of The Pines) was a standout. A trip Advisor favourite, the food and view incredible. One of those meals that anchors a place in your memory.
The right amount of adrenaline
The next morning, we drove to the alpine coaster near Fundata — and I loved it.
Not in a fearless, throw-yourself-down-a-mountain way (like that's me!), but because I could control it. There’s a brake. You set your own pace. Just enough adrenaline, just enough laughter, and absolutely worth the detour. With teenagers in tow, I had to balance the castles with a coaster!
A place to pause
From there, on to Sibiu — and this is where the trip softened.
It’s a beautiful town. Open squares, pastel buildings, a calm confidence. We stayed two nights, which felt exactly right.
Dinner at Kulinarium, brunch at Charlie's Specialty Coffee, and a slow wander that turned into a full day of ticking off sights without ever feeling rushed.
That’s always the sign of a good stop — when you stop checking the time.
Beautiful, chaotic, and slightly baffling
Then came Salina Turda.
It’s extraordinary. Vast, theatrical, surreal. The kind of place you don’t quite believe exists until you’re standing inside it. Cavernous, but also — chaotic.
Crowds (Easter weekend) precarious wooden stair cases, a Ferris Wheel? and a slightly anxious moment where we found ourselves waiting 40 minutes for an unsupervised lift after walking down 13 flights I couldn't face on the return. No staff, no real sense of control or safety. It felt like a missed opportunity — not just in organisation, but in experience.
And the strangest detail? I desperately wanted to buy salt. From a salt mine. And somehow… couldn’t.
Still — unforgettable. Would I do it again? No.
Fairytale endings (before the real ending)
Arriving in Sighișoara felt like stepping into a storybook. A medieval UNESCO heritage site and the birthplace of Dracula. Coloured houses, cobbled streets, a softness to the light. We stayed at Fronius Residence, where the staff were genuinely delightful, and had dinner at Hotel Sighișoara, guided by a wonderfully charming gentleman who seemed to know exactly what we should order before we did.
I also finally found the plate. If you know, you know.
The long drive and a lesson in hotels
We stopped in Brașov for lunch — the perfect leg stretch before the drive back to Bucharest.
And then… a truly terrible hotel experience (Sir Fundeni — avoid).
Which, in a way, made what came next even better.
The highlight I didn’t see coming
The Danube Delta.
This was the moment everything shifted.
We stayed in a an Airbnb authentic and simple, and were introduced to Cosmin — a local boat guide (lives opposite) who sat down with us, talked through routes, managed expectations, and quietly created one of the best days of the trip.
The next morning, his driver Cristian took us out.
Pelicans, swans, herons, eagles circling above us — and then, unexpectedly, the wild horses of Letea.
It was extraordinary. The kind of day you can't believe is finally happening because there has been so much in the planning and anticipation. Its the most remote I've ever felt.
Slowing down (and Dora)
The following day, we stopped.
We’d been moving constantly, and it caught up with us. So we rested. Sat. Did very little.
A local dog adopted us. We named her Dora. Like so many dogs we saw, she was gentle, hopeful, quietly present. It’s one of the harder parts of travelling here — the number of street dogs. Heart-breaking, if you let yourself feel it fully. She followed us around for the 3 days we were in the Delta. We didn't see her the morning we left for which I'm glad.
One final layer
On the way back, we stopped at Constanța to see the Art Nouveau casino and have lunch at Muse on the harbour.
Sea air, sunlight, a final shift in landscape.
And then back to Bucharest for a final night before the early flight the next morning.
What I was looking for (and what I found)
I had hoped to see:
- Lost culture
- Horse and carts
- Donkeys
- Authentic details
And we got all of that — in abundance.
But more than that, we found generosity. Warmth. A genuine appreciation that we were there. Romania doesn’t shout about itself. It doesn’t try too hard. But it gives — quietly, generously, and completely.
Would I recommend it?
Without hesitation.